Key Technical Specifications
- Output Voltage: 24VDC ±5% Adjustable
- Output Current: 6A Continuous, 7.5A Peak (5s)
- Input Voltage: 100-240VAC Auto-Ranging (Verify Selector Switch!)
- Power Rating: 150W Nominal
- Efficiency: >90% at Full Load
- Ripple & Noise: <150mV p-p
- Operating Temp: -20°C to +70°C (Derate above 50°C)
- Protection: OVP, OCP, SCP, OTP
- Mounting: Standard 35mm DIN Rail
- Dimensions: 45 x 125 x 100mm (W x H x D)
Product Introduction
I’ve seen entire control panels go dark because someone cheap’d out on the power supply. The BAT OCT06 ST/N/02 isn’t the fanciest unit on the market, but it’s a workhorse that actually holds 24VDC when the compressor kicks on. Most cheap PSUs sag to 18V under load, causing PLCs to reboot; this one has enough bulk capacitance to ride through the dip.Engineers keep these in the cabinet because they’re simple and they last. The 6A output covers a standard PLC rack plus a few remote I/O blocks without breaking a sweat. One plant manager told me he’s had three of these running in a dusty mill for eight years straight, only replacing them when he upgraded the PLC. They don’t have fancy digital displays or Modbus, but they don’t fail either. Just make sure you check that input voltage switch; I’ve popped two of these by assuming auto-range meant “auto-magic.”
Quality SOP & Tech Pitfalls
The Lab Report:
Power supplies are easy to fake and hard to test properly. Here’s my protocol:
- Visual Inspection: Check for blown capacitors, burnt resistors, or rework marks. BAT units from the early 2000s had some bad capacitor batches.
- Load Bank Test: Hook it up to a dummy load and pull 6A for 30 minutes. If it gets too hot to touch or voltage sags below 22.8V, it’s scrap.
- Ripple Check: Fluke scope probe on the output. Anything over 200mV p-p means the filter caps are dried out.
- Input Selector Check: CRITICAL. Verify the 115/230V switch position. I’ve seen techs assume “auto-range” and fry the rectifier bridge on 230V because the switch was stuck in 115V mode.
- ESD & Packing: Anti-static bag, desiccant, and a “TESTED” sticker with my initials.
The Engineer’s Warning:
CHECK THE INPUT VOLTAGE SWITCH. I can’t stress this enough. The “ST/N/02” suffix sometimes indicates a specific regional variant, but the physical switch on the side is the final authority. I watched a junior tech plug a 230V unit set to 115V into a European panel. Pop. Magic smoke. No warranty, no refund, just a very expensive lesson. Also, don’t mount these upside down. Heat rises, and the cooling vents need to be vertical. I’ve seen them cook themselves in horizontal racks because someone didn’t understand convection.
Installation & Configuration Guide
- Pre-Installation Safety: ⚠️ DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. Wait 60 seconds after unplugging. These things store enough juice to hurt you. Take a photo of the wiring and the INPUT VOLTAGE SWITCH POSITION before removing.
- Removal: Label the 24V+ and 24V- wires. Loosen the DIN clip gently; the plastic tab snaps if you force it.
- Installation: SET THE INPUT VOLTAGE SWITCH FIRST. Match it to your panel supply. Slide onto the rail, push down until it clicks. Torque terminal screws to 0.8 Nm; loose connections cause hot spots and fires.
- Power-On & Testing: Apply AC power. Green LED should be steady. Measure output with a multimeter under load. If it’s 24.5V no-load but 21V under load, the caps are weak. Replace it.
Compatible Replacement Models
| Model | Compatibility Tier | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| BAT OCT06 ST/N/02 | ✅ Drop-in Replacement | Same specs. Verify input switch position. |
| Mean Well NDR-240-24 | ✅ Drop-in Replacement | 10A output, same footprint. Over-spec but compatible. |
| Phoenix QUINT-PS/1AC/24DC/10 | ⚠️ Software Compatible | Same voltage, different width. Requires DIN rail adapter or new rail. |
| Generic 24V 6A PSU | ❌ Hardware Mod Required | DO NOT USE. No industrial temp rating, no protection. Will fail in a panel. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use this for a 24VDC motor load?
No. This is a control power supply, not a motor drive. Motors have massive inrush currents that will trip the OCP or fry the output stage. Use a dedicated motor supply or a soft-starter. I’ve seen guys try to run a small conveyor motor off this and melt the output diodes in a week.Is it safe to parallel two of these for more current?
Absolutely not. Unless they have active current sharing (this model doesn’t), one will hog the load and fail, then the second will fail trying to pick up the slack. If you need 12A, buy a 12A supply or use a proper redundancy module.Why is the output voltage 26V instead of 24V?
It’s adjustable. There’s a small pot near the output terminals. Turn it counter-clockwise to lower it. If it won’t adjust, the feedback circuit is likely fried. Don’t try to force it; replace the unit.Does this have a “Power Good” relay contact?
No. The ST/N/02 is a basic industrial supply. If you need a dry contact for your PLC input, add an external monitoring relay or upgrade to a QUINT or SITOP model. Don’t hack the LED circuit; you’ll void the safety certification.How do I know if it’s failing before it dies?
Listen. A healthy PSU is silent. If you hear a high-pitched whine or clicking, the caps are drying out or the switching frequency is drifting. Also, check the output ripple with a scope. If it’s creeping up over 150mV, plan a replacement during the next shutdown. Don’t wait for the PLC to reboot at 3 AM.What’s the difference between ST/N/02 and ST/N/01?
Usually just the input voltage selector default or a minor UL/CE certification update. Functionally identical. Just check the switch position before powering up. I’ve had both in the same panel, one set to 115V, one to 230V. Confusing? Yes. Dangerous? Very.Can I mount this sideways?
Technically yes, but don’t. The cooling vents are designed for vertical airflow. Horizontal mounting reduces lifespan by 30-50% in hot environments. If you have no choice, add a small fan. I’ve seen too many horizontal installs cook themselves in summer.
