Description
Key Technical Specifications
- Product Type: DIN Rail Mounting Kit
- Compatibility: Enterasys Industrial Ethernet Switches (I3H, A2H, B3H Series)
- Rail Standard: Standard TS-35 (35mm) Top-Hat Rail
- Material: Galvanized Steel / Zinc-plated
- Mounting Style: Clip-on / Snap-on
- Included Components: Mounting bracket, end-stop clips, screws
- Installation: Tool-less or minimal screwdriver required
- Environmental: Non-corrosive coating suitable for industrial cabinets
Product Introduction
You don’t buy a mounting kit because you want to; you buy it because the switch you just ordered doesn’t have clips on the back. It’s that simple. The Enterasys 13H-DIN-KIT is the “Plan B” for when you’re standing in front of a perforated panel with a switch that was designed for a flat wall, and you have nowhere to put it. I’ve seen too many projects stall because the hardware integrator ordered the wrong switch chassis, assuming it would snap onto the rail like a PLC.This kit turns a panel-mount device into a rail-mount device. It’s essentially a heavy-duty metal bracket that bolts onto the back of the switch and snaps onto the standard 35mm rail. It’s not high-tech, but it’s heavy-duty. The metal construction means it won’t warp in a hot cabinet like the cheap plastic knock-offs you find on eBay. If you are deploying Enterasys I3H or A2H switches in a standard industrial cabinet, this kit is the only way to keep your cabling strain-free and your equipment secure.
Quality SOP & Tech Pitfalls (The Reality Check)
The Lab Report (SOP)
Since this is a mechanical part, we aren’t running firmware tests, but we do check for physical integrity:
- Visual Inspection: We check for bent metal. If the bracket is twisted, it won’t snap onto the rail correctly, and the switch will wobble.
- Parts Verification: We verify the kit includes the end-stops. Without the end-stops, the switch will slide sideways along the rail until it hits a cable and rips the port off.
- Coating Check: We look for rust or stripped threads on the mounting screws. In a humid plant, a rusty screw is a headache you don’t need.
- Packaging: Bagged and tagged. We don’t throw loose metal parts in a box; they get scratched and damaged.
The Engineer’s Warning (Pitfalls)
- The “Slide” Hazard: The biggest mistake I see is installing the switch and forgetting the end-stop clips. You think it’s tight, but six months later, vibration from a nearby compressor shakes the switch down the rail. It hangs by its Ethernet cables, stressing the connectors until they fail. Always install the end-stops.
- Compatibility Confusion: Not every Enterasys switch takes this kit. Some have it built-in. If you buy this for a switch that already has clips, you’re just adding weight and bulk for no reason. Check the back of your unit first.
Installation & Configuration Guide
Phase 1: Preparation
- Identify the Rail: Ensure you have a standard 35mm “Top Hat” DIN rail. This kit will not fit on G-type or C-type rails without an adapter plate.
- Inspect the Switch: Verify your switch has the threaded mounting holes on the bottom or back panel.
Phase 2: Bracket Attachment
- Align the Kit: Place the 13H-DIN-KIT bracket against the switch’s mounting holes.
- Secure: Use the provided screws to bolt the bracket to the switch. Tighten these down hard. You don’t want the switch vibrating loose.
Phase 3: Rail Mounting
- Snap On: Hook the top lip of the bracket over the top of the DIN rail.
- Lock: Push the bottom of the switch until you hear a distinct click. It should feel solid, not loose.
- Secure Ends: Install the plastic or metal end-stop clips on the rail on both sides of the switch to prevent lateral movement.
Phase 4: Verification
- The Wiggle Test: Grab the switch and try to twist it. If the bracket moves, re-tighten the screws.
- Cable Strain: Plug in your cables. Ensure the weight of the cables isn’t pulling the switch down or up.
Compatible Replacement Models
Compatibility Tiers
- ✅ Direct Fit: This kit is designed specifically for Enterasys I3H, A2H, and B3H series industrial switches. It is the OEM standard.
- ⚠️ Universal Alternatives: You can find generic “Universal DIN Rail Mounting Kits” on Amazon or McMaster-Carr. They are cheaper (10 vs 50), but the metal is often thinner, and the fit isn’t precise. Use them only for non-critical, low-vibration areas.
- ❌ Integrated Models: Do not buy this if you have an I3H252-6TX-MEM (or similar variants). Many of these come with the clips pre-installed on the chassis.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Will this fit a standard PLC rail?
A1: Yes. It fits the standard 35mm DIN rail that almost every industrial PLC, relay, and drive uses. It’s the industry standard.
Q2: Does this kit come with the screws?
A2: Usually, yes. The “KIT” designation implies it includes the bracket, the end-stops, and the necessary hardware. However, always check the listing description, as surplus stock can sometimes be incomplete.
Q3: Can I use this to mount a non-Enterasys switch?
A3: Maybe. If your third-party switch has the standard 4-hole mounting pattern on the bottom, this bracket will likely work. It’s just a piece of metal with holes. Measure your switch’s hole spacing before buying.
Q4: Is this metal or plastic?
A4: Metal. It needs to be. Plastic gets brittle in cold warehouses and melts in hot panels. The 13H-DIN-KIT is steel for durability.
Q5: I lost the end-stop clips. Does it matter?
A5: Yes, it matters. Without them, your switch is just resting on the rail. The first time someone tugs on an Ethernet cable to unplug it, the switch will slide. Go to a hardware store and buy generic rail stops if you lost the OEM ones.




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Quality SOP & Tech Pitfalls (The Reality Check)